The best binoculars for stargazing are a 10x50, not the giant 20x80 an ambitious first buyer is tempted by. Magnification and aperture trade off against each other in ways a spec sheet never explains: push either one too far and the view gets dimmer, shakier, or both. Binoculars also beat a telescope as a first purchase for a reason that has nothing to do with optics quality: there's no collimation to learn, no mount to assemble, and the same pair works for daytime birding or a ballgame. A telescope is worth buying once stargazing has proven itself a lasting habit, not before.
Three numbers decide whether a binocular is worth owning: aperture, magnification, and exit pupil. Aperture, the diameter of the front (objective) lens in millimeters, sets how much light the binocular can gather; a 50mm lens pulls in roughly 2.8 times the light of a 30mm lens, math that matters far more than the magnification printed next to it. Exit pupil, aperture divided by magnification, is the diameter of the beam of light actually leaving the eyepiece, and it needs to roughly match your own dark-adapted pupil so you aren't wasting light the binocular already gathered. A 10x50 produces a 5mm exit pupil, a close match for most adult eyes even well past their 20s. A 7x50 produces a 7.1mm exit pupil, sized for a fully dark-adapted pupil that, past your 30s or 40s, may no longer dilate that wide.
Magnification has its own ceiling, and it isn't optical, it's biological: hand tremor makes anything above about 10x visibly jittery without support. A 15x70 shows sharper planetary detail and pulls in noticeably more light than a 10x50, but that's roughly the point where a tripod adapter, usually sold separately, stops being optional for long sessions. Push to a 20x80 giant binocular and a tripod becomes mandatory outright; the view is unusable handheld at that weight and magnification.
Prism type and glass quality are the last variables, and they show up in price faster than in the spec sheet. BaK-4 prism glass transmits more light than the cheaper BaK-7 glass used in true bargain binoculars, and ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass removes the purple-green fringing visible around bright stars and the Moon's edge in ordinary optics, at roughly double the price of a standard model. Porro-prism binoculars, with offset barrels, are usually brighter for the money; roof-prism binoculars, with straight barrels, are more compact and easier to weatherseal. None of it matters if the aperture and exit pupil are wrong for how you'll actually use the binocular. Get those two numbers right first.